A Castle, Crafts, and a Pint

…….or Two

There are places in Ireland where history lingers quietly in the stones… and then there’s Kilkenny, where history seems to stand up, tip its hat, and invite you inside for a pint.

Just ninety minutes from Dublin, Kilkenny is one of Ireland’s best-preserved medieval cities. Wander its cobbled streets and you’ll find castles, cathedrals, cozy pubs, artisan shops, and some of the friendliest people in the country. It’s known as the “Marble City” because of the dark limestone used in many of its buildings, and while there’s no actual marble here, the nickname somehow fits the polished charm of the place. My Dad was born here. County Kilkenny has my heart even if in the world of Irish sport there was never two more rivalrous counties like Wexford & Kilkenny.

I will say that for visitors to Ireland, Kilkenny offers something rare: a city that feels ancient and alive at the same time. You can tour a Norman castle in the morning, sip a craft beer brewed on the same ground for centuries in the afternoon, and listen to traditional music in a candlelit pub that night.

So let’s stroll together through Kilkenny and discover the best things to see, taste, and experience in this unforgettable Irish city.

Kilkenny Castle, Kilkenny City, Co Kilkenny_TI71B3H.jpg

Smithwick's Experience, Kilkenny City_TI715AT.jpg

Jerpoint Abbey, Thomastown, Co Kilkenny_TI719B8.jpg

Kilkenny Castle, Co Kilkenny_TI71B6K.jpg

St Canice's Cathedral and Round Tower, Kilkenny City, Co Kilkenny_TI7ZNN.jpg

Graiguenamanagh, Co Kilkenny_TI71CK1.jpg

Start with Kilkenny Castle

If Kilkenny has a heart, it beats inside the walls of Kilkenny Castle.

Standing proudly on the banks of the River Nore, the castle was first built in 1195 by the powerful Norman lord William Marshal and later became the home of the Butler family for nearly 600 years.

Approaching the castle from the Parade, you’ll see wide lawns stretching toward those famous round towers. It’s one of the most photographed scenes in Ireland—and for good reason.

Inside, the rooms feel surprisingly personal but palatial at the same time. Grand staircases, elegant drawing rooms, and richly decorated ceilings tell the story of aristocratic life in Ireland through the centuries. But one of the most fascinating rooms is the Long Gallery, where portraits of the Butler family look down as if quietly judging your fashion choices. Be sure to look above the portraits to find the remarkable ornate rafters.

Don’t rush this visit. Take time to wander the gardens behind the castle, stroll along the river, and watch the swans glide across the water. YOU can take hosted walking tour BOOK HERE or just stroll around town yourself. Either way, a walk is the perfect way to begin your Kilkenny adventure.

Walk the Medieval Mile

Kilkenny is wonderfully compact, and one of the best ways to explore it is along the Medieval Mile—a historic trail running through the center of the city from Kilkenny Castle to St. Canice’s Cathedral.

Along this stretch you’ll discover some of the city’s most fascinating landmarks.

Stop at the Medieval Mile Museum, located in a beautifully restored church where interactive exhibits bring Kilkenny’s history to life. Just a short stroll away you’ll find Rothe House, a remarkable 17th-century merchant’s townhouse complex that gives visitors a glimpse of life in medieval Ireland.

As you wander, keep an eye out for narrow alleyways like Butter Slip and centuries-old buildings like Shee Alms House. The city’s layered history reveals itself around every corner.

And of course, there are plenty of pubs along the way—because no Irish walking tour should ever be done entirely without refreshments.

Climb St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower

At the northern end of the Medieval Mile stands St. Canice’s Cathedral, one of Ireland’s most impressive medieval churches.

Built in the 13th century, the cathedral is filled with beautiful stained glass windows, ancient tombs, and centuries of stories carved into the stone walls.

But the real adventure here lies outside.

Beside the cathedral stands one of Ireland’s few accessible round towers, rising nearly 100 feet above the city. If you’re feeling brave—and reasonably fit—you can climb the narrow ladder inside.

When you reach the top, Kilkenny spreads out before you like a medieval map: castle towers in the distance, church spires piercing the skyline, and the River Nore winding gently through it all.

It’s one of the best views in Ireland. Cost is minimal. BOOK HERE

Experience the Story of Ireland’s Oldest Ale

You can’t visit Kilkenny without learning about its most famous export: Smithwick’s.

The Smithwick’s Experience is located on the site of the old St. Francis Abbey brewery, where ale has been brewed since the early 1700s.

This immersive tour tells the story of Ireland’s oldest ale through interactive exhibits, storytelling, and of course… tasting. Now, I am not an ale guy. I am a lager and stout guy but I enjoyed this tour. BOOK HERE

Visitors learn about the brewing process, the history of the Smithwick family, and the traditions that made this ruby-red ale famous around the world. The experience ends with a pint and a lesson in pouring the perfect glass—something every visitor to Ireland should master before they leave.

Explore Kilkenny’s Craft and Design Scene

Kilkenny isn’t just about history—it’s also one of Ireland’s creative capitals.

Right beside the castle you’ll find the National Design & Craft Gallery, showcasing the work of some of Ireland’s most talented artists and designers.

From hand-woven textiles to contemporary ceramics and jewelry, the gallery celebrates Ireland’s long tradition of craftsmanship. The Kilkenny Design Store has wonderful gift items to bring home to the family. This is mostly high end goods. Think less shamrocks, more upscale pottery. Love the place.

Nearby shops and studios throughout the city sell beautiful locally made pieces, making Kilkenny one of the best places in Ireland to bring home something truly unique.

Where to Stay in Kilkenny

Kilkenny offers a wonderful range of places to stay—from luxurious country estates to charming historic hotels.

Kilkenny Hibernian Hotel

Stay in the heart of Kilkenny – Excellent location - My top pick. In the city centre, right in the shadow of Kilkenny Castle. Originally the Hibernian Bank, this 18th Century building overlooks the Parade, popular because it's close to Kilkenny Castle and the Kilkenny Design Centre. I had a spacious room that was quiet despite that central location close to nightlife. BOOK HERE

Mount Juliet Estate

About 14 miles from Kilkenny city and part of the Marriot Autograph Collection, Mount Juliet Estate has sensational natural beauty with 500 acres of lush parkland, ancient trees and woodland, miles of rushing river and formal walled gardens. The estate boasts Michelin-starred dining at the Lady Helen, along with award-winning casual dining at The Hound Restaurant. The estate offers a unique range of activities, including the Jack Nicklaus-designed championship golf course, a Health and Wellness Centre with a newly refurbished gym and pool, an intimate 12-seater Cinema, courtesy estate bicycles and an array of country estate pursuits, including fishing and falconry in addition to a state-of-the-art equestrian centre, making the Mount Juliet Estate the perfect country retreat. Posh? Expensive? YES…..but worth it. I love the place. BOOK HERE

Lyrath Estate Hotel

On the outskirts of the city, the elegant Lyrath Estate Hotel offers a quieter time. It says it is 5 star but I think it is a solid 4 star. Set on beautiful grounds, the property features a spa, indoor pool, and refined dining. Guests love the peaceful gardens and countryside views. It is a bit outside the town so if you are walking, you might want to stay in city center. BOOK HERE

Where to Eat in Kilkenny

One of the great surprises for visitors is just how good the food scene is here. Kilkenny has quietly become one of Ireland’s most exciting culinary destinations.

Campagne

If you’re looking for fine dining, Campagne is the place for you. Combining French and Irish flavors, this is an elevated experience. Try the slow cooked lamb and the raspberry dessert.

Zuni Restaurant

Located beside the castle, Zuni offers a stylish atmosphere and a menu that combines modern Irish flavors with international influences.

Foodworks

For something casual and delicious, Foodworks is a local favorite serving organic dishes, pizzas, sandwiches, and hearty Irish fare. I love the breakfasts here.

And of course, no evening in Kilkenny would be complete without a cozy pub dinner.

The Pubs and Music of Kilkenny

Kilkenny’s pub culture is legendary.

One of the most famous spots is Kyteler’s Inn, a 700-year-old pub with stone walls, roaring fires, and nightly traditional music. According to legend, it was founded by Dame Alice Kyteler, who was accused of witchcraft in the 1300s.

Today, thankfully, the only magic happening here is the music.

You’ll also find great sessions at places likeMatt the Millers, The Left Bank, and my favorite, open since 1703, Tynan’s Bridge House Bar. Seriously, I had one of the most perfect pints of Guinness ever, here.

Some nights the music spills onto the street, and the whole city seems to hum with energy. It’s that kind of town.

Day Trips Around Kilkenny

If you have extra time, the countryside around Kilkenny is filled with beautiful villages and hidden gems.

Just a short drive away you’ll find:

Inistioge – A picture-perfect village known for its tree-lined square and riverside walks. I had a magical moment on the river there, watching white horses graze on the banks of the river. Truly a beautiful stop.

Graiguenamanagh – A charming town along the River Barrow with a magnificent 13th-century abbey. Home to one of my all time favorite stores and featured on our show Cushendale - try leaving without buying one of their gorgeous throws or blankets. I am obsessed!!!! Tell them I sent you.