Three Days in Wexford: A Local's Guide to Ireland's Sunny Southeast
I might be somewhat biased but there is a quiet magic to County Wexford. Tucked into Ireland’s sunny southeast, it’s a place where vikings look on from ancient stone walls, where normans still walk, where the sea is never far away, and where every pub seems to have a song waiting to begin.
Wexford Town
For me, Wexford is home. But even if it isn’t your home, give it three days and it may start to feel like it.
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Day One — Wexford Town: History, Harbour & Singing
Start your journey in Wexford Town, one of Ireland’s oldest Viking settlements. Wander along the narrow streets that slope gently toward the harbour that feel like hills on the way home. The town’s colorful storefronts and friendly cafés make it an easy place to settle into Irish life.
First thing you will notice is the accent. A singsongy uniqueness undoubtedly formed by Yola, our native language that sounds more like Cornish. We have words not used anywhere else in the world.
First place to visit is the National Opera House (I sang on its opening night), the beating cultural heart of the town and host of the internationally renowned Wexford Festival Opera. The roof holds a gem of a cafe. La Vista with gorgeous views of the harbour and the roofs of Wexford is a favorite for locals. Lunches are large, tasty and reasonable. You might even meet my sister Majella who works there. Tell her I said hi!!!
Even outside the festival season, the building itself is a statement of how deeply music runs through the county’s veins. Singing is a way of life here. Those operas have filtered down to ordinary folk who love to sing in the pubs. You are more likely to hear singing here, than jigs or reels. It is what we do. During the festival, that singing can involve a rare Verdi aria by a Russian soprano or an old Percy French song from a local who may have stayed too long in the establishment. Regardless, it is always an adventure.
Just a short walk away, stroll the Quayfront, where fishing boats bob in the harbour much as they have for centuries. Stop for lunch at a seafood restaurant overlooking the water — Wexford’s seafood, especially crab and mussels, is among the finest in Ireland. Hands down the best seafood in town is at La Côte - located 20 yards from the trawlers and presented with simplicity and incredible flavor.
Stop for a coffee at The Trough right in the Crescent harbour anchored by a statue of Commodore John Barry, founder of the American Navy and indeed, a Wexford man. Great coffee, pastries and outdoor seating make this the ideal place to stop and watch the world go by.
In the afternoon, head a few minutes outside town to the Irish National Heritage Park, a remarkable outdoor museum that tells the story of Ireland from prehistoric times through the Viking and Norman eras. Walking through reconstructed settlements gives a sense of just how deep the history runs here. Most of the exhibits are outdoors so make sure to either bring a raincoat or wait for some sunshine.
As evening arrives, return to town for dinner, pints & music. There are many pub options so choose wisely or go to them all.
This establishment has won best pub in Ireland in several contests. Endless rooms of different flavors offering sunny brightness or wee nests to hideaway in. Home to great traditional music & singer-songwriters - check their schedule. Owned by Johnny and Nuala, who I have known most of my life, the place was created with love and attention to detail.
The Sky and the Ground
My local for many many many years. If the walls could talk. Simon’s has evolved to cater to a younger crowd over the years however the BarBQ menu is spectacular and there is always a good pint found here. This is where the opera singers hang out so don’t be surprised if you hear Puccini in the Pub.
Again catering mostly to a younger crowd but the decor is everything you want from an irish establishment and the traditional music is stellar here.
At best this pub holds 50 people. It is tiny, atmospheric and for sure, rough around the edges. One of my go to spots and a great place for a singsong.
No tourists here. Locals enjoying gorgeous pints and just a short stroll from the Main Street. LOVE THE PLACE.
Day Two — Beaches, Lighthouses & Haunted Houses
Wexford’s coastline is among the most beautiful in Ireland — long golden beaches, ragged cliffs, and sea views that seem to stretch forever. The sky is big in Wexford. The warmer sunnier weather here brings Irish natives for their vacations.
Begin the morning at Curracloe Beach, a spectacular sweep of sand backed by towering dunes. This is the beach made famous in the opening scenes of Saving Private Ryan, but on most mornings it feels peaceful and untouched. Walk along the shoreline with the sound of waves and seabirds — one of Ireland’s simplest and greatest pleasures and my all time favorire beach, globally. I spent my childhood here, playing in those golden dunes.
If beaches aren’t your thing, then perhaps a short 20 mile drive up to New Ross might be an option. First stop would be Dunbrody Famine Ship, a replica of an 1840s vessel that sailed to America. It’s an incredible insight into that fated journey that thousand took in the 1800s in search of a new life in America. The center also features an interesting Irish American Hall of Fame with lovely people from my life hailed like Tom Moran, Michael Flately and best of all, Joanie Madden.
Down the road is the Kennedy Homestead, the actual farm the the great grandfather of President Kennedy left in the 1040s. It is full of amazing memorabilia and souvenirs of the President’s incredible return home to Wexford, just a few months before he was tragically killed.
Next, drive south along the coast toward the Hook Peninsula.
Standing at the edge of the Atlantic is Hook Lighthouse, one of the oldest operating lighthouses in the world, guiding sailors for over 800 years. Climb the tower for breathtaking views where the Irish Sea meets the Atlantic. The tour is worth it, lasts about a half hour, and full of incredible facts. You will be ready for a cuppa in the cafe overlooking the waves on the crashing rocks.
There is an incredible Sea Cave Kayaking Tour. If you have watched my show you know I love any water activities and rowing along this jagged rocky coastline is nothing short of a thrill. Highly recommended.
Be sure to stop for a look at Loftus Hall, the nearby Palladian structure, known as the most haunted house in Ireland. You won’t be able to get inside but be grateful for that.
In the afternoon, spend some time with Paul Walsh of Wexwalks - his walking tours of Wexford are informative, leisurely and funny. They last an hour and are so reasonable. You will learn all about the town and if you buy him a pint he might even tell you a few stories about me.
For dinner, back in Wexford there are so many fantastic options. Here are the places I love
Elevated comforting food with incredible warmth from the waitstaff. Great value and nothing too elevated. Just honest old Irish food with some added Indian and Mexican influences. I know that might seem odd to American visitors but trust me. The food is tasty.
Restaurant, Wine Bar, Cafe, Wine Store…..a bit of everything. This casual and upscale spot is a fun place for lunch or evening tapas and on a sunny day, an outside spot to watch Wexford go by. They occasionally have jazz and during the opera festival, pop up recitals. Try the excellent Monkfish scampi . You will love their wine options.
I like the cosmopolitan atmosphere here. Nothing pretentious. Tasty food and a very fun atmosphere in the covered Monck Street with pubs dotted along that stay open late into the night. In my travel book, I recommend avoiding caesar salad in Ireland however I had a fantastic one here.
This is more stately, elevated and quieter. The wine list is probably the best in the country and indeed if it isn’t on the list, go to their wine store on the premises and pick something you like. The place isn’t cheap but if you want something special, I would try here. The art gallery on site is worth a trip before you sit for dinner. I have spent way too much money on art and wine here but I have always loved it.
I adore the Indian food here. My lovely and funny friend, Emma Lett opened 20 years ago. The food is light, bursting with flavors and the whole atmosphere is sunny. They have great reasonable wines to go with the dishes. I can taste the food right now and wish I was there. Mmmmmmmm!
Day Three — Castles, Chips & Chowder
Your final day is about discovering the softer countryside of Wexford.
Begin at Johnstown Castle Estate, where elegant gardens and lakes surround a stunning Gothic Revival castle that is Disneyesque. The grounds are peaceful except for the peacocks displaying themselves elegantly and crying across the stillness of the park — perfect for a leisurely morning walk. I spent many days of my childhood playing around the lake.
For dinner I would head out to The Sea Rooms at Kelly’s Hotel in Rosslare Strand. I have always loved this hotel. Bright, easy but classy with incredible staff, the food and wine list is stellar with an art collection hanging that I think might just be the best in Ireland. Dine while looking at a Warhol. Yes, it is that good. There are multiple options but the new Sea Rooms is truly a marvel, earning raves from food critics and I think destined for a Michelin star, one of these days.
If concerned about budget, why not try Kilmore. Head to Mary Barry’s for their famous chowder and a stroll down to Kilmore Quay for a stroll on the harbour or maybe some fish and chips, right there, looking at the trawlers that brought in your fish that morning. You can have Ireland’s finest for a lot less than any expensive restaurant at Saltee’s Chipper
Where to stay
In Wexford town you have plenty of good value options. If you want something 5 star then you will have to head out of town.
Just outside of town is a peaceful spot right on the river Slaney. The Ferrycarrig featured a few seasons ago on my show. It has nicely appointed rooms, a stellar leisure center and pool, breakfast views across the estuary that are unbeatable, a top notch roomy bar with live music in season and really excellent food options. I have brought many of my tours here and they have loved it.
The Talbot is right on the quay and there is nothing like an early morning stroll from there as the sun rises. Truly magical. I love the friendly staff here and the bustling coffee lounge during the day. Be sure to ask for a sea view room. The bar has a lot of live music through the summer. I made my first paycheck here performing for American tourists as a teenager. If those walls could talk!!!
Whites has been a hotel in the center of town for over a hundred years. It is so close to the Main Street. Be sure to ask for a high floor room. There are plenty of food options but you are so close to Main Street it won’t be a problem to find great dining. They have a great pool if you have kids with you. It can get busy in high season so if you want peace, go elsewhere but if it is convenience you are after, then this is the place.
I am a fan of Talbot Suites, gorgeous apartments right on the quay with everything you need for a self catering stay and convenient to loads of restaurants if you just want to dine out. I stayed for a Christmas once and loved the experience. Tastefully decorated with most of the units having great views of the water, the apartments are quiet and well maintained.
That is Wexford in a nutshell for you. If you have any more questions or recommendations for me, please message me below and I promise to answer asap.
